A gem dealer's journal — introduction to gemology

AsiaLounges: Following your last answer, do you think that removing colour calls / colour types and origin determination in order to stick to strictly provable data would help labs to be more coherent with one another or is this a fool’s errand either way?

Billie Hughes: Certainly having fewer subjective factors on the report could reduce the number of discrepancies on lab reports on the market, but you wouldn’t eliminate them completely. There may also be ways to modify the way we treat color calls and origin determination that could create more consistent results without doing away with them altogether.

Color types like Pigeon’s Blood and Royal Blue can be highly subjective, so removing those from reports could create more consistency. But it wouldn’t fix the problem of subjective color calls on colored stone reports, because the nomenclature for colored stones has been inconsistent for many years. Many variety names rely on judgements on color. For example, distinguishing between ruby and pink sapphire or green beryl and emerald is subjective. Which tourmalines get called “rubelite” or “indicolite?” Is the trade comfortable with removing “Padparadscha” from sapphire reports? 

With regards to origin, moving to broader origin categories might be a middle ground between issuing very specific country of origin comments vs. getting rid of origin. For example, it can be difficult to separate blue sapphires formed in similar metamorphic deposits like Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and Kashmir (India). But the vast majority of these stones are easy to separate from blue sapphires from magmatic deposits like those in Australia and Thailand. Classifying stones in these kinds of categories would be more consistent. Stones from different types of deposits also tend to be more similar in appearance. However, there are always outliers so this wouldn’t eliminate the problem. Furthermore several years ago one of the world’s most well-known lab tried a similar system, and it never really took off. It seems the market was not ready for this type of system.

We must keep in mind that it is not as simple as just collecting data. How the data is collected can have an impact on results. A lot of our work involves the interpretation of data, and this interpretation is depending on the knowledge, attention to detail, and experience of the gemologist.

Hey Loungers, Today we have the pleasure of concluding the Microteers Arc by interviewing the Light Bender and third Microteer: GIA’s Nathan Renfro! Nathan is a talented and outspoken gemmologist, excellent photographer of course, one of the three legendary Microteers and disciple of the Titan: John Koivula himself! Today we have the opportunity to learn more about Nathan with this interview! Nathan, the floor is yours!   AsiaLounges: First of all thank you very much for agreeing to being with us today Nathan. Can you tell us more about yourself? Who are you Nathan Renfro? Nathan Renfro: Well, I am...

Hey Loungers, Some of you may know today’s guest as GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library & Information Center’s director. Others know him for his career as a world famous photographer and one of the first modern journalists of the gem trade. We had the pleasure to meet with him moments after he was awarded with the coveted 2020 Antonio C. Bonanno Award in Tucson, in recognition of his contributions to the gem trade’s development in his decades-long career. Today, we welcome the man that made Bartholomew the Rat an instant celebrity in 2018 on Facebook: Mr Robert Weldon!  ...

Hey Loungers, By now we have all heard of the legendary Lotus Gemology team. We all know via papers and interviews, the ruby & sapphire colossus, Richard W. Hughes, and his equally talented daughter, E. Billie Hughes. Yet little is known about the missing link in that trinity. Wimon Manorotkul is not only a talented gemmologist in her own right, and a skilled photographer to boot, But she is arguably the person that brought the other two members of her family to the world of gems. You read that right, she is the one who enrolled Richard for his first...

Hey Loungers, His name is Zyubenko, Dmitry Zyubenko and the trade has about as many urban legends about his past as there are stones available. Today we receive the cheerful Dmitry to learn more about his path and his trade. Today we get to see another facet of our Eastern friends and the east European gem trade! Dmitry, tovarish (comrade), the floor is yours!     Dmitry Zyubenko is with us in the Lounges today - Photo Credits: Dmitry Zyubenko   AsiaLounges: Privet, Dmitry! Thank you very much for being with us today. Let’s start with learning a bit about...