A gem dealer's journal — jewellery

AsiaLounges: Following your last answer, do you think that removing colour calls / colour types and origin determination in order to stick to strictly provable data would help labs to be more coherent with one another or is this a fool’s errand either way?

Billie Hughes: Certainly having fewer subjective factors on the report could reduce the number of discrepancies on lab reports on the market, but you wouldn’t eliminate them completely. There may also be ways to modify the way we treat color calls and origin determination that could create more consistent results without doing away with them altogether.

Color types like Pigeon’s Blood and Royal Blue can be highly subjective, so removing those from reports could create more consistency. But it wouldn’t fix the problem of subjective color calls on colored stone reports, because the nomenclature for colored stones has been inconsistent for many years. Many variety names rely on judgements on color. For example, distinguishing between ruby and pink sapphire or green beryl and emerald is subjective. Which tourmalines get called “rubelite” or “indicolite?” Is the trade comfortable with removing “Padparadscha” from sapphire reports? 

With regards to origin, moving to broader origin categories might be a middle ground between issuing very specific country of origin comments vs. getting rid of origin. For example, it can be difficult to separate blue sapphires formed in similar metamorphic deposits like Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and Kashmir (India). But the vast majority of these stones are easy to separate from blue sapphires from magmatic deposits like those in Australia and Thailand. Classifying stones in these kinds of categories would be more consistent. Stones from different types of deposits also tend to be more similar in appearance. However, there are always outliers so this wouldn’t eliminate the problem. Furthermore several years ago one of the world’s most well-known lab tried a similar system, and it never really took off. It seems the market was not ready for this type of system.

We must keep in mind that it is not as simple as just collecting data. How the data is collected can have an impact on results. A lot of our work involves the interpretation of data, and this interpretation is depending on the knowledge, attention to detail, and experience of the gemologist.

Hey Loungers, Many have mentioned that we do not interview enough females in these columns. While I disagree, I find myself interested to study a new pattern in our trade: The Path of Inheritance in the Trade, is it a curse, a boon or a bit of both? To that end, we have decided to interview Kamila Guerchouche about her new brand, Kaerche and used this opportunity to ask her a few questions about her path as a second generation gem dealer. If you are as interested in that story and potential new questioning arc, follow us with this very...

Hey Loungers, You often hear us talking about Thailand, and Bangkok in particular, as being the beating heart of the gem trade yet never really explained why. Well, today, we can finally help you get a better grasp over the importance of Thailand for our merry trade. Today, we have the pleasure of introducing you to one of Chantaburi’s Lords of the Ruby trade. Today, we have the pleasure of interviewing the owner of the titanic Gemburi company, the jovial and outgoing Phuket Khunaprapakorn! Khun Phuket, the floor is yours!   Discover Gemburi's K. Phuket Khunaprapakorn story now as a...

Hey Loungers, Today we are proud to receive Mr. Olivier Segura on behalf of L’Ecole – School of Jewelry Arts. We interview him as our friend Lotus Gemology’s E.Billie Hughes gave a series of very successful presentation about gemological inclusions named after their latest book: Inside Out with Olivier himself, in Paris on March 12th 2020 and followed closely by an exhibition : “Discover the Gemstones – Ruby&Sapphire” curated by Billie and Olivier, still on going as we write these lines (September 17th) in L'École Asia Pacifique in Hong Kong. Olivier is a seasoned gemologist that has directed the French Gemmological Laboratory...

Hey Loungers, Some of you may know today’s guest as GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library & Information Center’s director. Others know him for his career as a world famous photographer and one of the first modern journalists of the gem trade. We had the pleasure to meet with him moments after he was awarded with the coveted 2020 Antonio C. Bonanno Award in Tucson, in recognition of his contributions to the gem trade’s development in his decades-long career. Today, we welcome the man that made Bartholomew the Rat an instant celebrity in 2018 on Facebook: Mr Robert Weldon!  ...